Some people love to study a menu in advance, maybe get a feel for the room and even preselect a bottle from the wine list. I’m the opposite. I prefer to walk in blind and let the place speak for itself. In life, I hate surprises – but strangely when it comes to restaurants, I live for them. 53 in Midtown Manhattan was exactly that: a reminder to keep an open mind and let the food do the talking.
I’ll admit, I’m usually wary of the phrase “Asian-inspired.” It often signals a scattershot menu trying to cover too much ground, because really, how do you honor so many different culinary traditions all at once? Somehow, 53 pulls it off, weaving together Singaporean, Korean, Japanese, and Chinese cuisines. It’s a contemporary Asian restaurant, which means the fried rice, shumais, and chicken wings may come at a premium price point, but unlike many places built on small plates, this one earns it.
The Ambiance
We ducked into 53 on a rainy Wednesday night, finding only a few early imbibers scattered about. A handful of financiers in tailored suits, a couple of Bergdorf goers lingering over a second martini, and small pockets of friends catching up. An hour later, the place was fully packed – buzzing so loudly that I could barely hear our server describe what was being placed in front of us. Honestly, it only added to the fun of everything we ate. The service was distinctly New York, striking that balance of polished, swift and warm. They didn’t miss a beat.
Right next door to the MoMA (Museum of Modern Art), 53’s three-story building feels like an art installation of its own. The design centers around sweeping sculptural blades, meant to represent ‘chi,’ or the flow of energy moving through the restaurant. A soft, amber backlight gives the room a warmth, making every angle look a little different and uniquely beautiful. Downstairs, the main dining room mirrors the effect with a ceiling of the same form, this time painted in a vibrant rainbow.
The Menu
While the interior is sleek and modern, the food tells a different story. It feels like something lovingly made in a friend’s kitchen, you know, the kind where bowls are passed around and shared. There are places where I would happily hand over the reins and let the team decide what I should eat, this is one of them. On the chef’s recommendation, we set off on a journey through the cold, hot, steamed, grilled, and wok-fired menu.
What’s better than kicking things off with fresh truffles? You can find truffles woven throughout the menu in some clever ways, from the Chicken Truffle Xiao Long Bao to the decadent Truffle Egg (more on that soon!) Our first encounter came with the Mizuna Salad, which pairs peppery water greens tossed with thinly sliced mushrooms, shaved truffle and crushed hazelnuts. A staple in Japanese home cooking, mizuna’s mustardy bite and tender leaves pack a punch when eaten raw.
Next came the Fluke Kombujime, lightly cured and dusted with shiso salt and lime – a portion size far more generous than expected. To finish off the “Cold” eats, a bowl of Cucumber Salad arrived. Crunchy cucumber and chewy wood ear mushrooms were coated in a fiery chili oil. It was an unexpectedly addictive dish, one that I ended up hoarding for myself.
Enter the Truffle Egg, one of 53’s signature dishes and easily the night’s showstopper. It arrives looking deceptively simple but is a decadent blend of land and sea. It’s a silky medley of chicken jus and foie gras, and the kind of dish that quiets the table for a moment before you race to dive back in.
Inspired by sambal stingray, a beloved street food from Singapore and Malaysia, 53’s take on the Skate arrives wrapped in banana leaves and grilled over charcoal. When served, its unwrapped tableside like a delicate package. Its steaming and seasoned with a perfect balance of chiles – spicy enough to wake up the palate, but never be overwhelming. A squeeze of lime completes what feels like a rare dish to find in NYC.
The Black Cod Claypot remains on the menu season after season, and it’s easy to see why. Reminiscent of Korean bibimbap, the dish is mixed tableside, releasing an incredible aroma. The black cod, glazed in jalapeño miso with ginger and cilantro, rests over a bed of rice that grows crispier as it rests in the clay pot. Japanese flavors prepared in a Korean cooking style – we love that. Like many dishes at 53, the portion is generous and made for sharing.
As for dessert, you might think you’ve seen it all before, but somehow, the pastry team at Calilo finds a way to make each classic feel new. Our favorite was the Mango Pudding. With a dash of Greek yogurt at its center, it’s not too sweet, not too tart, and just the right amount of creamy to end the meal with.
The Ba53ment
And if you’re not ready to call it a night, you’ve got options, some that don’t even require putting your coat back on. Tucked beneath the main dining room and hidden behind a glowing red door, The BA53MENT isn’t just an afterthought, it’s the main event itself.
Billed as a speakeasy, you’ll find live music, interesting cocktail pairings, and some fun bites, all wrapped in an after-hours atmosphere. Start with The Smoke Show, it’s a gin number with amaro and a yuzu liqueur, delivered in a cloud of cherry wood smoke. It’s a sultry twist on a white negroni and pure theatre from the moment it arrives. We know you just ate, but don’t miss the Summer Merengue, on their small bites menu. It’s a texture-driven surprise—light, crisp, and layered with mango-lime curd hiding a burst of Pop Rocks at its core.
The Verdict
My only complaint is that there was so much more I wanted to try, from the Hainanese Chicken to the Eel Club. Which means only one thing: I’ll be back to 53. Yes, it can feel like a splurge, especially for a Wednesday night, but it’s one that feels entirely justified.
53 and Ba53ment
Website
53 West 53rd Street, New York, NY
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